When the bells rang to signal the start of the party, guests were already seated wearing huge decorated hats and matching short dresses. Besides, the comrades wore traditional coats. In 1995, the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon hosted the first wedding of a member of the Portuguese royal house in more than a century. The wedding between Dom Duarte Pio de Bragança and Isabel de Heredia took place on May 13, with much pomp and circumstance.
Among the more than two thousand guests, the flowery yellow outfit of Princess Maria Gabriella of Savoy or the blue look of the then First Lady Maria Barroso, whose choices were praised in the photographic summary of the magazine “Olá Semanário”, stood out. , which you can see below.
After 28 years, it is the turn of Maria Francisca, daughter of the Dukes of Bragança, to walk down the aisle and continue the tradition. The meeting with lawyer Duarte de Souza Araujo Martins will take place on October 7, in the Basilica of the Royal Palace in Mafra. The mystery is not limited to the bride’s dress designed by Luzia do Nascimento.
When he received the invitation, in July, Jose Poza Serrano immediately looked at the dress code written in a corner. The former ambassador and head of state protocol, who will attend the ceremony, told NiT: “Men must wear a formal uniform, coat or dark suit, and ladies must wear formal clothes.”
The recommendation aims to “preserve traditions but make things easier.”, he adds. “Everything is more moderate. Times are tough, and this is not the time to go overboard,” he points out, as a preview of the trend that will intersect with a party look that “will become a popular party.”
One of the main differences compared to the previous royal wedding will be in the size of the accessories that the ladies choose. “I don’t think they’ll see each other [joias] Impressive as seen on [casamento] Dr.. Isabel and Dom Duarte”, He follows. Guests arriving from different parts of the world are more likely to choose to travel lighter and safer, and therefore with fewer – or more discreet – accessories.
Who will wear the hat?
Although a female dress code is not specified in the invitation, the monarchy’s typical formal protocol advises the use of a hat for events beginning “until mid-afternoon.” As a reminder, the religious ceremony will take place at three o’clock in the afternoon in the Basilica of Mafra Monastery.
The classic set consists of an accessory – which can be a cape or a charm – and a pair of gloves, complemented by a knee-length dress. According to traditional rules, from 7pm onwards, only married women should cover their heads.
“I know Doña Isabel will wear a hat to the wedding.”“, reveals José. However, he explains that “nowadays, guests can let go of that”, choosing more sophisticated and discreet hairstyles, appropriate to the occasion.
The protocol may have been “softened”, but it continues to impose rules that cannot be broken. Like the bride who cannot wear a short model with transparent or bold slits, the guests “They may not wear immoral or provocative clothing,” such as sleeveless blouses, dresses with low necklines, or very short hems.
At night, the pieces should be really long. Despite the freedom – meaning there is no set recommendation as in men’s clothing – “the ladies know how to dress. “It is traditional wedding paraphernalia.”
Dress code for men
When it comes to men’s clothing, not much has changed in nearly three decades. At the Duarte Pio de Bragança link, there was a real display of military uniforms and traditional coats. The set includes a cricket cap, which ends at the back of the knee, and consists of three pieces: a jacket, a jacket and formal trousers.
This time, the diplomat highlights the third option that was added as an alternative, which is the dark suit. ““We just have to think about the tie and the scarf and it’s done.”, she says. However, it is natural to want to use decorative symbols, especially those associated with the Bragança house.
As for what to wear, the choice is simpler: “Only moccasins.” Sports styles, such as ballet flats or sailing shoes, are prohibited. Usually, shoes with laces or straps are always worn. It is a rule that remains “basic” and must be respected in this marriage.
José Boza Serrano will, of course, remain true to tradition and will wear his diplomatic uniform, which he keeps in his closet. “It would be a tribute from the Republic to the monarchy,” says the specialist in monarchy issues, who has served in several international embassies.
And the children?
At the rehearsals of the concert, where he was present, there were no boys. This means that from the beginning we will not see the usual groups of sailors that have appeared in portraits of princes since the nineteenth century. This tradition, imported from the English royal family, also involves children wearing shorts, which has become a symbol of social status.
“If we look at Prince George of Wales [10 anos] “We saw him wearing long pants two or three years ago,” he explains. However, brother Louis, who is 5 years old, still appears only in knee-length shorts and high socks. Only older youth, usually over 14 years of age, start wearing pants.
For girls the equation is very simple. “Bridesmaids should wear dresses and headpieces decorated with flowers.”although I don’t know which color served as the theme for the little guests.
Among those attending are expected to be members of the House of Luxembourg, namely Princes Louis and Sebastian (sons of the Grand Duke of Luxembourg), representatives of the Royal Houses of Brazil, Liechtenstein, France, Austria and Bulgaria, among other foreign families and representatives. From Italian and southern nobility, relatives and friends.
Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa and Carlos Moedas have also confirmed that they will attend the Infanta’s wedding, while Prime Minister António Costa, despite being invited, will not attend for scheduling reasons. Pedro Santana López, Miguel Albuquerque and former referees such as Pedro Passos Coelho, Paulo Portas and Durao Barroso will also attend the wedding.
Soon, supporters of the monarchy and faces of the republic will be sitting in the same place. “There is a law in the Council that is the law of precedence. When they have a class, such as heads of state, judges or military personnel, a person does not lose his nature in the ceremony.He explains. The President of the Republic, for example, will have a place of honor alongside the bride’s family.
The rest of the seating chart is also set. By tradition, members of the ruling royal families are first to be seated, followed by second sons and other princely houses or European nobility. Finally, there was still a place for the Portuguese nobility.
According to the law of precedence, and since the event takes place in Mafra, the president of the chamber has the rank of minister and will be first in his category. That is, he will sit after the last minister in the government.
Regarding the strange date chosen, two days after the celebration of the founding of the Republic, “It was the choice of the bride and groom,” José explains, “They both work, so it was taking into account holidays and availability.”
On the other hand, the parents ascended to the altar at the same time, but on a day that has special symbolism for the couple among the worshipers. At three o’clock in the afternoon of May 13, 1995, they celebrated the wedding on the same date as the apparitions of the Virgin Mary in Fatima. “I was in Brussels, got on the plane and made it,” he recalls. And this time, he’s waiting impatiently in Portugal.
Regarding the wedding, it is also known that Infanta Maria Francisca will walk down the aisle with a diadem of 800 diamonds from Queen d’Amelia, earrings from her mother and grandmother and a borrowed royal bracelet, she told El Observador. Jewelry will complement the “very simple” model made of raw fabric with a princess silhouette, a train and little or no embroidery.
From the rich Portuguese menu to the 150kg cake, designed by Chef Hélio Loureiro, details are slowly revealed. Before the wedding, take the opportunity to read NiT’s interview with Luzia do Nascimento, the seamstress who has worked for the Bragança family for more than two decades, and also find out the story of the tiara that the bride will wear.
Next, click through the gallery to see some of the most eye-catching wedding dresses of 2023 (so far).
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